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Old February 12th, 2008   #101
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Made some templates for the rear axle brackets. Used some sheetmetal cause I didnt feel like goin into the house to find sissors. The sheet metal worked killer.



I'll of course add some gussets, ethier with 1.5 dom or some plate. probably the dom. Also gonna back it with some plate.

brackets for the lowers



Now I either have to start torching and grinding or bring them to somone with a table!
separation is about 12" at the frame its gonna be about 6"
Im thinkin the lower links will be around 43" the wish bone will be around 34"
One end the links will be adjustable about 2 1/2". Wheel base around 116"
The front lowers will be around 43" as well with some adjustment. First time doing this. Havent used the triad calculator but this looks like it might work. Any thoughts will help. Thanks!
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Old February 12th, 2008   #102
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on the welding pause more on the edges(red dots) and go a little faster on the lines and it will make your weld smoother and better.
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Old February 12th, 2008   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeper89 View Post
on the welding pause more on the edges(red dots) and go a little faster on the lines and it will make your weld smoother and better.
Ya if was stick or flux core I would for sure do that. I was certified with 7018, learned how to use that. Havet learned shit with mig just what Ive read and what Ive read is a striaght pass is the way to go. But Ive seen lots of guys with mig do there own shit and it all seems to hold?
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Old February 13th, 2008   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wixjp1 View Post
Ya if was stick or flux core I would for sure do that. I was certified with 7018, learned how to use that. Havet learned shit with mig just what Ive read and what Ive read is a striaght pass is the way to go. But Ive seen lots of guys with mig do there own shit and it all seems to hold?
when i did my cert for mig at the school i was told by one teacher to do the sweep and by one to do one slower straight pass.. they both hold good i think its more just looks. but if most of your weld is in the middle of the weld joint then the edges are the weaker point?
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Old February 13th, 2008   #105
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Originally Posted by jeeper89 View Post
when i did my cert for mig at the school i was told by one teacher to do the sweep and by one to do one slower straight pass.. they both hold good i think its more just looks. but if most of your weld is in the middle of the weld joint then the edges are the weaker point?
Ya makes sense. But what I need is feed back about the links!
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Old February 13th, 2008   #106
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Originally Posted by wixjp1 View Post
Ya makes sense. But what I need is feed back about the links!
there i have no clue..:frown::redface: wish i knew.
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Old February 13th, 2008   #107
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looking good mine aspiers to be like yours when it grows up.
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Old February 16th, 2008   #108
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how close are the upper brackets goona be??Also are you triangulating the lowers or just going to the chassis!!!!we need the whole picture...triangulation is your friend!!!
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Old February 16th, 2008   #109
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Originally Posted by MR.ROCKAPE View Post
how close are the upper brackets goona be??Also are you triangulating the lowers or just going to the chassis!!!!we need the whole picture...triangulation is your friend!!!
Upper brackets are gonna be on the frame, I think its about 42" outsided-soutside. Gonna be hard to triangulate the lowers since the polyper brackets I got to mount to the bottom of the frame, And the cast on the mogs starts right at 43". Would it work to have the lowers on the axle about 35-40"? and 42" on the frame? (all measurements are outside) Also the frame mounts on the upper trilink will be about 10" behind the frame mounts for the lowers?
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Old February 16th, 2008   #110
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Any bit of triangulation on the lowers is good even if it is just a few degrees, it helps to reduce rear stear. Also what helps is to keep the lowers as flat as possible. Have you played with the 4 link calculator on pirate.
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Old February 16th, 2008   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dnmeistr View Post
Any bit of triangulation on the lowers is good even if it is just a few degrees, it helps to reduce rear stear. Also what helps is to keep the lowers as flat as possible. Have you played with the 4 link calculator on pirate.
i had that on my computer and i lost it.. anyone have a link to it?
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Old February 16th, 2008   #112
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i had that on my computer and i lost it.. anyone have a link to it?
SEARCH YOU FUCKING NEWB

If you search Triaged or 4 link calculator should be easy to find. Ive messed with it but it makes me brain hurt..
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Old February 16th, 2008   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wixjp1 View Post
SEARCH YOU FUCKING NEWB

If you search Triaged or 4 link calculator should be easy to find. Ive messed with it but it makes me brain hurt..
why search when i can have other search for me...
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Old February 16th, 2008   #114
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Quote:
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Ive messed with it but it makes me brain hurt..
Heck if you can figure out how to bend tube you should have no problem with the calculator
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Old March 11th, 2008   #115
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Been workin on this as much as I can which is isnt very often. I almost got the front axle ready to go. I just need to get on portal box pressed off. My little press wont cut it. I think Ill bring it to a shop tomarrow. I also got the rear axle in place. It was a pita doing it by myself. One heavy mofo.

Can you put a 5 gallon bucket under your axle with plenty of room to spare? Also got the new rear section welded in.

Been workin on the frame too. Got all the old brackets melted off and grinded smooth.
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Old March 11th, 2008   #116
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Move that rear back just a tad so your tires stick out further than the body. Make for good approach angles
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Old March 11th, 2008   #117
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Quote:
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Move that rear back just a tad so your tires stick out further than the body. Make for good approach angles
That would be cool if I drove around in reverse all day! I think you meant departure. And its back plenty far enough, I guess its a bad angle in that picture. Maybe you should see it in real life.
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Old March 17th, 2008   #118
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UPDATE WITH NO PICTURES!

Sorry no pictures, put I pretty much got the front axle all ready and should have it under the jeep by tomarrow night. Got the rest of the beadlocks all mounted up, and learned to make sure you have the valve stems in before putting the bead locks on. :mad: Good thing my son has small hands. I should be able to start linking it up towards the end of the week.
I started to list all the stuff left to do and the list isnt small...mount shocks, mount steering, pinion conv. d-lines, fuel cell/lines, brake lines, upgrade brake MC, paint...
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Old March 17th, 2008   #119
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Quote:
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UPDATE WITH NO PICTURES!

Sorry no pictures, put I pretty much got the front axle all ready and should have it under the jeep by tomarrow night. Got the rest of the beadlocks all mounted up, and learned to make sure you have the valve stems in before putting the bead locks on. :mad: Good thing my son has small hands. I should be able to start linking it up towards the end of the week.
I started to list all the stuff left to do and the list isnt small...mount shocks, mount steering, pinion conv. d-lines, fuel cell/lines, brake lines, upgrade brake MC, paint...
SWEET SHOW US THE PICS OF YOUR MOUNTED SHOCKS....
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Old March 17th, 2008   #120
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SWEET SHOW US THE PICS OF YOUR MOUNTED SHOCKS....
Have some faith! I got a tracking # now! should see some of stuff tomarrow...
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Old March 19th, 2008   #121
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GOT A PACKAGE TODAY.
half of the shocks. Hey its a start...
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Old March 19th, 2008   #122
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Nice package!
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XJ MOSER IS A FLAKE!!!!:mad:
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BY THE WAY XJMOSER'S RIG IS PRETTY SWEET & AT LEAST HE SHOWED UP .....B!TCHES! :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :yup:
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Old March 19th, 2008   #123
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Nice package!
I knew it was gonna be a nice one just by the size of it.
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Old March 19th, 2008   #124
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DAMN THOSE ARE BLING!!!!AT LEAST IT WILL RIDE NICE!!!!
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Old March 19th, 2008   #125
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Threw one together.
Shocks are 16" travel
coils are: 14" .0200 and 16" .0300
Put the .0200 on the bottom and the .0300 on the body end.
Dont know much about them but I started reading the coil over bible on pirate. One thing is they are long! Ill probably have to mount them to the top of the cage!
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Old March 20th, 2008   #126
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Go through the hood on the front, makes for a nice aggressive look. Whens the rest of the bling coming in?
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Old March 20th, 2008   #127
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Go through the hood on the front, makes for a nice aggressive look. Whens the rest of the bling coming in?
I'll run them through the hood if it is necessary. The rest should be here in about another 4 months Im guessing.
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Old March 20th, 2008   #128
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I'll run them through the hood if it is necessary. The rest should be here in about another 4 months Im guessing.
i orderd my shocks yesterday.. and got them today
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Old March 28th, 2008   #129
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come awn!!! any new updates???
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Old March 28th, 2008   #130
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Been on Vaction with the family, got back last night. Gonna do some work tomarrow. And maybe Ill give shaffer a call to see where the rest of the parts are???
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Old March 28th, 2008   #131
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Been on Vaction with the family, got back last night. Gonna do some work tomarrow. And maybe Ill give shaffer a call to see where the rest of the parts are???
Just called mike, He told me to open my eyes. My front shocks got delieverd yesterday and were sitting in the front entrance of our office.
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Old March 28th, 2008   #132
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No more excuses then, get after it.
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Old March 29th, 2008   #133
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Got some stuff done today.
Finished gettin the front axle together and got it under the jeep. The mogs are pretty heavy...Im gonna try and use the stock steering arms and tie-rod. It sits in back of the axle, so I fliped it around. The tie-rod will be in the front and Ill try to mount the single ended ram in the back.


One steering arm has a back end where I think I might be able to mount the ram too. I need to move it to the passenger side though...
More pics.

Just barely clears the front bumper.

Got 1 1/2" of clearance to the radiator hose. The front axle is sitting on jacks, tires are 1" off the ground. I think I'll only need to raise it another 2 inches? total about 4 1/2" of clearance from top of pumpkin to radiator, think it's enough??

Approach

Departure


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Old March 30th, 2008   #134
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Got 1 1/2" of clearance to the radiator hose. The front axle is sitting on jacks, tires are 1" off the ground. I think I'll only need to raise it another 2 inches? total about 4 1/2" of clearance from top of pumpkin to radiator, think it's
I thinks it's more than PJ has, his sits on the bump stops
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Old March 30th, 2008   #135
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Where I think it will end up.
WB 115"
Height" 83"
width 89"
Belly 27"

One more pic.
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Old March 30th, 2008   #136
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Where I think it will end up.
WB 115"
Height" 83"
width 89"
Belly 27"
Cool rig.
89" is 3" more tha a HMMWV, and it's a wide bitch Have fun
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Old March 30th, 2008   #137
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Cool rig.
89" is 3" more tha a HMMWV, and it's a wide bitch Have fun
Thanks,
The disc brake conv. bumped me out a coulpe inches plus the 14.5 wide tires. Oh well what I cant fit through I'lll just drive over
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Old March 30th, 2008   #138
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And the rest of the shocks!
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Old March 30th, 2008   #139
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just remember your shocks need to either limit your total uptravel or you are throwing away all that shock you paid for.....

When I re-do the two seater I am planning for 20" under the belly but with 6 inches of uptravel front and rear!!!!The plus for me is that the chassis is already stepped to accomodate it!!!

You need to get your chassis at ride height,axles under it on the tires and then mock your shocks in so you know where the shock mounts need to be!!!Im thinking those super travel shocks are gonna end up through the floor and hood!!!

And...you may end up C-notching your frame to be able to fit a panhard and still have uptravel in the front!!!
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Old March 30th, 2008   #140
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I like the stance on it. Gonna be a wide mo fo.
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Old March 30th, 2008   #141
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just remember your shocks need to either limit your total uptravel or you are throwing away all that shock you paid for.....

When I re-do the two seater I am planning for 20" under the belly but with 6 inches of uptravel front and rear!!!!The plus for me is that the chassis is already stepped to accomodate it!!!

You need to get your chassis at ride height,axles under it on the tires and then mock your shocks in so you know where the shock mounts need to be!!!Im thinking those super travel shocks are gonna end up through the floor and hood!!!

And...you may end up C-notching your frame to be able to fit a panhard and still have uptravel in the front!!!
I read somwhere on pirate that you can mount the shocks at full stuff. There is a formula for each shock, for like a 14 in you mount the shock brackets about 23" apart. Then you just need to hope you have the the right coils for the up and down travel you want... I need to find that thread and read up on it again.
And yeah they will be through the hood and in the back they will go through the rear wheel wells and tie in about 10" above the tub to the cage.
Was messing with the link calc. and got this
FRONT:
anti squat 94.29%
Roll axis angle 7.46
Roll center Height 30.52
instant center x axis 147.23
Instant center z axis 41.04

36" upper length
40" lower length

Does the upper link need to go the driver side frame? and attach near center line of axle? and does panhard need to attach to the frame on passenger side and axle on driver side? Im pretty sure it does just want to confirm, and would like to put the upper on the passenger side (frame)

REAR:
anti squat 95%
Roll center height 31 Roll axis angle 8
instant center x axis 132
instant center z axis 39

upper length 32"
lower length 43"

Last edited by wix; March 30th, 2008 at 11:39 AM..
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Old March 30th, 2008   #142
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SINCE YOU ARE GONNA GO SINGLE UPPER LINK YOU CAN PUT IT WHERE YOU WANT...(THOUGH IT MIGHT HAVE SOME ODD STREET HANDLING WHEN BRAKEING OR ACCELERATING...)

IF YOU LOOK AT LO-BUDGET,THE UPPER LINK IS STRAIGHT,NOT ANGLED AT ALL(I BELIEVE THAT CAUSES A BIND WITH THE PANHARD IF YOU DO ANGLE THEM...)LOWERS ARE SLIGHTLY ANGLED SO THE FRONT TIRES DONT RUB,WHEN TURNING....

SINCE LO-BUDGET WORKS WELL I PLAN TO DO IT JUST LIKE THAT AGAIN(UPPER LINK AND PANHARD BOTH MOUNT ON THE DRIVERS SIDE OF THE CHASSIS)

AND AS FAR AS YOUR #S GO.....THEY ARE REALLY HARD TO APPLY TO A MOG....THE TWIST THOSE PORTAL BOXES PUT ON THE HOUSING HAS GOT TO HAVE SOME EFFECT ON WHERE THEY ACTUALLY TRY TO ROTATE THE HOUSING AND LINK PLACEMENT....IT WOULD BE LIKE USING THE SAME PLACES ON A DANA70...THE LOWER LINKS WOULD MOUNT ON TOP OF THE TUBES AND THE UPPER LINK TOWER WOULD BE 2 FEET TALL......I BELIEVE IT HAS TO HAVE SOME EFFECT!!!(I COULD BE WRONG AS I AM KNOWN AS A MOG HATER....)
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Old March 30th, 2008   #143
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rig is looking sweet.

you're definitely going want those shocks mounted up high, I wish I had mounted them higher on mine, and they're up thru the hood. 5-6 inches of uptravel to full bumpstop compression will make the highspeed stuff softer. Mine are like 5" up in rear, 6"+ up in front to full bumpstop compress with less than a inch shaft left on the shocks. I wish I had mounted the coilovers higher on my hoops to allow for more shaft at full bump and more uptravel when flexed out. the tires only move up like 6", and drop like 10". It seems to work well enough and is pretty stable, but more uptravel at the corners would even be better.
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Old April 4th, 2008   #144
wix
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I decided to go without any triangulation in the rear lowers. It will go together a lot easier. Ill just be aware of it and if its real bad Ill have to change it.

I put together all my lowers. Need to weld up the tube adapter just contemplating stuffing some 1.5 inch .120 wall into them. Any thoughts?

If you dont own a notcher, WHY THE FAWK NOT???? Doing 4 .250 wall took about 10 minutes.







I need to have somone make me some brackets for the axle end
Tomarrow Im gonna work on the rear upper wish bone. should be able to get it done and mounted. Also did some reading up the coil overs. Pretty easy, just discharge them, measure distance (eye to eye) put your mounts that far apart at full stuff. Then slap the coils on, mount the shock charge em up to where you need to be. Just gotta hope I got the right size coils.
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Old April 5th, 2008   #145
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Glad your getting some more progress going on this. Did you get your steering from Shaffer yet?
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Old April 5th, 2008   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Valley View Post
Glad your getting some more progress going on this. Did you get your steering from Shaffer yet?
Nope, also missing 2 front coils. Gonna need it all real soon, Ill give him a cal monday. Then Ill probably get it by the end of the week. Seems thats all it takes (though it shouldnt) is a call.
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Old April 6th, 2008   #147
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Well I worked on the rear wish bone yesterday. Took about six hours, came out real nice. The notches were good and everything fit real tight.

The only problem was I didnt measure twice and cut once :14:...I got the inside measurement and got going to fast and for some reason I thought it was the outside measurement...Anyway it was off by about four inches so I guess it was just good practice. Good thing I just tacked everything. Thats what happens at 12:30am I guess. Was pretty pissed. :mad::07:
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Old April 7th, 2008   #148
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Got it right this time Took about half the time too, and used up most of the peices of tube from the 1st one.


I laid it all out on my welding table. I used a piece of 1/4" plate for a flat edge. Marked where the brackets would be (on the frame) on the flat edge and then I tacked the joints to the flat edge where they would be on the frame. Then I laid out the center tube and tacked it down as well. Then I just notched some tube and put it where it fit.

I put it under the jeep where I got the brackets mounted. (sorry no pics) The upper link fits perfect. I got all my links done expect the front upper and the panhard. Im hopin to have this thing on its own wieght by the end of the week (if I can find my missing coils)
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Old April 7th, 2008   #149
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You need brackets?
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Old April 7th, 2008   #150
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You need brackets?
Ya I do! What do you need? templates?
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