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Old February 10th, 2011   #1
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Building a tank...what do I need?

This is sort of a LAME question, but I wanna make sure I get this right. Since most of you have done this, thought Id bring it up here.

So...Decided to go ahead an build my own fuel tank since I cant seem to find anything that will fit JUST RIGHT in the OEM world and I get shut down when I call some of the manufacturers with questions re. THEIR tanks for NON specific applications...SERIOUSLY...would not answer my questions for "liability" reasons.
Im running a 5.3 L, Vortec, 01'. Dimensions are 25x 20 x 8/9 (depending on sending unit) should be around 17 gal if I calculated correctly. Steel construction, plan to have em brake it at Protofab. Ga steel???? Will be using my mig welder to weld this bitch together.

What all do I need for this?
Fuel pick up (where to put this? Off a sump?)
Return (again where does this need to be situated on the tank?)
Vent (assuming off the top near the filler...)
Can I put the filler neck off the SIDE of the tank near the top, or does it have to be ON THE TOP of the tank? I have a very limited space that I can snake the filler hose through, but it requires mounting on the side of the tank
Fitting sizes...-6 AN?
Baffles...2 or 1? The shape of the tank is going to be a CUBE, so TWO baffle plates, running vertically across the length of the tank front to rear with some holes cut out in them for fuel passage?
Sump...should this face forward or rear? How big? Pick up and return off the sump?
Sending unit....I have VERY limited space ABOVE the tank. Is there such a thing as a flush mount fuel sender? There are float types and summit carries one that mounts vertically that is pretty spendy...any recommendations on this?
Fuel pump....in line or in tank? Like the idea of in line and keeping a spare just in case...easy to change, but as Im to understand the in tank pumps last longer????

Any help on this would be appreciated on this. Im a bit nervous about how this is gonna go (as you might be able to tell) so I just wanna try as best as I can to get it right the first time around

Thanks in advance!

Keith
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Old February 10th, 2011   #2
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heres a good place to start http://therockgods.com/forum/showthr...ight=fuel+tank
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Old February 10th, 2011   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no-idea View Post

Crap...forgot just HOW detailed that thread is.

Stil have ONE more question...return line...where does that need to go?

Thanks,

K
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Old February 10th, 2011   #4
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Originally Posted by chicago View Post
Crap...forgot just HOW detailed that thread is.

Stil have ONE more question...return line...where does that need to go?

Thanks,

K
put it where ever it is convenient. on the bottom, or near the bottom will help minimize fuel foaming. try to keep it away from the fuel pickup to keep bubbles or turbulent fuel from entering the pickup. but if it is easier, or makes more sense when routing lines, put it on the top. really doesn't matter IMO.
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Old February 11th, 2011   #5
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Originally Posted by BryanD View Post
put it where ever it is convenient. on the bottom, or near the bottom will help minimize fuel foaming. try to keep it away from the fuel pickup to keep bubbles or turbulent fuel from entering the pickup. but if it is easier, or makes more sense when routing lines, put it on the top. really doesn't matter IMO.

Okay...so this is a REALLY dumb question...
Im actually a little embarassed to ask...Obviously the return line is for the return of fuel back to the tank, right? Is the fuel that is returning UN USED from the motor/ FI system?
Im am ASSUMING that to be true, but dont know for sure. It doesnt make a lot of sense if that is the case...one would think it would be a scant amount of fuel return?

I guess understanding what is occurring there would help me to better understand its position.

Thanks for the input!
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Old February 11th, 2011   #6
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yes basically the injectors need a certain pressure to inject fuel into the cylinder at so after the inline/in tank pump pressurizes the fuel line and the proper amount is pressurized to the fuel rail the excess fuel is drained back into the return line through the fuel pressure regulator which drains back into the fuel tank that is my understanding of how the injection works on my yota
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Old February 11th, 2011   #7
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On GM GenIII / LS-x engines, yes the return line goes back to the tank. and it IS a fair amount of fuel. on a truck motor it is a 5/16 line off of the fuel rail, and it will be a steady flow back. that is why i recommend to keep it away from the pickup by several inches at least, as it can induce bubbles and/or turbulence into the pickup fuel.

THIS IS FOR INLINE PUMPS;
Fuel pumps that put out the 60+ psi needed for GenIII engines would burn up if you didn't return the fuel. the fuel flowing through them is what keeps them cool. if you can EVER hear your fuel pump while the engine is running you have a problem. either the "pre" filter is plugged and the pump is cavitating (most common), or there is a blockage "post" pump and you are building too much pressure.
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Old February 11th, 2011   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago View Post
What all do I need for this?


Keith
You need a TIG welder, I thought we already went over this.
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Old February 11th, 2011   #9
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Originally Posted by rusty_tlc View Post
You need a TIG welder,
NOPE! see my thread.
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Old February 11th, 2011   #10
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Originally Posted by BryanD View Post
NOPE! see my thread.
I'm giving him shit.
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Old February 11th, 2011   #11
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but if I was building a tank, I'd look no further than the M-1 Abrams A-2 !!! Oh sorry wrong tank

If ya need anything cut out pm me or Big Blue Balls <
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Old February 11th, 2011   #12
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYRAM97 View Post
but if I was building a tank, I'd look no further than the M-1 Abrams A-2 !!! Oh sorry wrong tank

If ya need anything cut out pm me or Big Blue Balls <
Thanks for the offer!
I appreciate that!
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Old February 11th, 2011   #13
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Thanks for the offer!
I appreciate that!
Not a problem we have a torchmate 3 table so it's easy !!!
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Old February 13th, 2011   #14
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Got the tank mocked up with cardboard...had to nip the dimensions DOWN a bit.
Ended up going with 25x19x8. Drew it up and took it down to protofab for the forming. Should have it by Wed.
As per Bryan D's thread... used the I.D. and STRESSED the importance of accuracy on their part. Matl's and Labor will be about 140 bucks.

Pics...
1 the spot I want it
2 crude dimensions
3 CB mock up
4 CB mock up in place.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 001.JPG (103.1 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg 004.JPG (167.8 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg 001 (2).JPG (77.9 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg 002 (2).JPG (77.4 KB, 91 views)
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Old February 13th, 2011   #15
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looks good. you got the exact welder i use for my tanks. you will be happy when done. fits PERFECT, hold enough fuel, and not in the way.
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Old February 14th, 2011   #16
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Originally Posted by BryanD View Post
looks good. you got the exact welder i use for my tanks. you will be happy when done. fits PERFECT, hold enough fuel, and not in the way.
Thanks man!
Im a BIT concerned with a drop off a ledge and HITTING, but Ill be running some HD bump stops to limit that. However, Im not all that concerned as I am running leaf springs. They would have to go into a neg. arch almost for that to happen. I think Ill be okay.
only ONE WAY to find out.

BTW...I appreciate the write up and info you have provided on this topic! I could do NOTHING if it was not for sites like these! Im VERY CAREFUL in what I do, but Im still very much a rookie when it comes to this.
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Old February 14th, 2011   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago View Post
Thanks man!
Im a BIT concerned with a drop off a ledge and HITTING, but Ill be running some HD bump stops to limit that. However, Im not all that concerned as I am running leaf springs. They would have to go into a neg. arch almost for that to happen. I think Ill be okay.
only ONE WAY to find out.

BTW...I appreciate the write up and info you have provided on this topic! I could do NOTHING if it was not for sites like these! Im VERY CAREFUL in what I do, but Im still very much a rookie when it comes to this.
I would be concerned with stuffing the drivers rear, having the axle articulate more than completely stuff. when it twists that track bar will go up pretty far. you could always notch it for the track bar to clear once you find out if it hits. i've modified tanks after using them for awhile for reasons like that.
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Old February 14th, 2011   #18
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Why not just use the cardboard? it looked perrtttyyy sturdy.
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Old February 14th, 2011   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG BLUE View Post
Why not just use the cardboard? it looked perrtttyyy sturdy.
WE ARE SAVING THE CARDBOAD,BUNGEE CORDS AND LICORICE FUEL LINES FOR YOUR RIG!!

BTW CHICAGO I REPLIED TO YOUR COOLING SYS QUESTION I SAW ON PIRATE HERE...

http://www.therockgods.com/forum/sho...1&postcount=24

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Old February 14th, 2011   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.ROCKAPE View Post
WE ARE SAVING THE CARDBOAD,BUNGEE CORDS AND LICORICE FUEL LINES FOR YOUR RIG!!

BTW CHICAGO I REPLIED TO YOUR COOLING SYS QUESTION I SAW ON PIRATE HERE...

http://www.therockgods.com/forum/sho...1&postcount=24

he forgot to tell you the WAY EASIER & CHEAPER way to do it though.
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Old February 14th, 2011   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR.ROCKAPE View Post
WE ARE SAVING THE CARDBOAD,BUNGEE CORDS AND LICORICE FUEL LINES FOR YOUR RIG!!

BTW CHICAGO I REPLIED TO YOUR COOLING SYS QUESTION I SAW ON PIRATE HERE...

http://www.therockgods.com/forum/sho...1&postcount=24

I had seen that while I was at work...Didnt have a chance to reply. Few questions heading that way.

I appreciate the input!
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Old February 15th, 2011   #22
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stopped over at summit today to pick up some fittings....
Dude behind the counter said I need MALE fittings? Is this right? Just wanted to make sure. I got 6AN as well.,
Are they the only place locally you can get weld in bungs? Was gonna add a drain plug at the bottom, but wasnt thrilled about payin 18 bucks for the ARP name. They had others that were cheaper, but...would LIKE flanged if I could.
Borrowed a friends 110V welder for this project....Its equipped with shielding gas, so Im curious about using that stuff as I never had before. Ive been running flux core for as long as Ive been at it. Too cheap to spring for the gas.
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Old February 15th, 2011   #23
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Are they the only place locally you can get weld in bungs? Was gonna add a drain plug at the bottom, but wasnt thrilled about payin 18 bucks for the ARP name. They had others that were cheaper, but...would LIKE flanged if I could.
Borrowed a friends 110V welder for this project....Its equipped with shielding gas, so Im curious about using that stuff as I never had before. Ive been running flux core for as long as Ive been at it. Too cheap to spring for the gas.
i think you should look over my gas tank build thread again. everything about fittings and where to buy is there. the fittings i use are like $2
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Old February 16th, 2011   #24
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i think you should look over my gas tank build thread again. everything about fittings and where to buy is there. the fittings i use are like $2
Damn...
Sorry!
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Old February 16th, 2011   #25
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Damn...
Sorry!
yeah, I have no problem with brass and steel fittings on my rig. I think I have 2 aluminum AN fittings on my whole car. AN fittings from Summit will send you to the poor house!
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Old February 16th, 2011   #26
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yeah, I have no problem with brass and steel fittings on my rig. I think I have 2 aluminum AN fittings on my whole car. AN fittings from Summit will send you to the poor house!

Okay...so I do have this question for you then...why use the female fittings vs. the male fitting? Is there an advantage to that?
When takin with the dude at Slummit, the said that most of the time those fittings are MALE fittings for the hose end fittings to connect to. Just wondering how you tie in the lines off the female fittings?
Stopped by Parker hydraulic today on rock and glendale...that have some COOL ASS SHIT in that place including some nice brake line stuff they make for you in lieu of having to bend it yourself....anyway...looking around there, all the fitting SEEM to be the same stuff (not as bling) as the slummit AN stuff?
I was looking in particular at something to weld in for a drain plug. Im a bit nervous about everything that I had looked at for fear of LOSING the plug on the trail. You never really went over what you use for a drain?
Its not rocket science though, right? I mean...there's more than one way to skin this cat. I do have a tendency to over think some of this stuff.

I have to apologize for the redundancy of my posts and how they relate to your post. Im sort of OCD and will focus INTENTLY on certain things and sort of gloss over other things. In this case...I was more focused on the actual construction and not so much the details.
So again...I apologize.

BTW...the tank was NOT ready at Protofab today..
I guess the guy slated to tackle the project called in.

K
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Old February 16th, 2011   #27
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Okay...so I do have this question for you then...why use the female fittings vs. the male fitting? Is there an advantage to that?
When takin with the dude at Slummit, the said that most of the time those fittings are MALE fittings for the hose end fittings to connect to. Just wondering how you tie in the lines off the female fittings? I USE FEMALE NPT WELD IN PIECES. FROM THERE YOU CAN GO WAY CHEAP AND THREAD IN A BRASS BARB FITTING FROM HOME DEPOT AND HOSE CLAMP YOUR FUEL LINE ON IF YOU WANT. IMO, AN = $$$
Stopped by Parker hydraulic today on rock and glendale...that have some COOL ASS SHIT in that place including some nice brake line stuff they make for you in lieu of having to bend it yourself....anyway...looking around there, all the fitting SEEM to be the same stuff (not as bling) as the slummit AN stuff? FYI, AN (originally Army/Navy = race today) = JIC (steel hydraulic).
I was looking in particular at something to weld in for a drain plug. Im a bit nervous about everything that I had looked at for fear of LOSING the plug on the trail. You never really went over what you use for a drain? I USE SAME FITTINGS AS EVERYTHING ELSE - SEE MY THREAD, THERE ARE PICTURES TOO.
Its not rocket science though, right? I mean...there's more than one way to skin this cat. I do have a tendency to over think some of this stuff.

I have to apologize for the redundancy of my posts and how they relate to your post. Im sort of OCD and will focus INTENTLY on certain things and sort of gloss over other things. In this case...I was more focused on the actual construction and not so much the details.
So again...I apologize.

BTW...the tank was NOT ready at Protofab today..
I guess the guy slated to tackle the project called in.

K
the parts from Proto Fab will be worth the wait. every tank i've had them do fit together like a glove. but if you never used gas before and that welder do some practice on some scrap. you gotta be able to lay down a nice CONTINUOUS bead to minimize leaks. again, see me thread.
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Old February 16th, 2011   #28
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the parts from Proto Fab will be worth the wait. every tank i've had them do fit together like a glove. but if you never used gas before and that welder do some practice on some scrap. you gotta be able to lay down a nice CONTINUOUS bead to minimize leaks. again, see me thread.
Roger on the practice runs.
Was planning on that for sure.!
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Old February 19th, 2011   #29
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Got a good BITE on it today.
Started the AM with cutting some material and doing some practice runs on various settings and wrote down the one that I felt looked/ worked the best.
Got the baffles cut, welded them in, wire wheeled the inside of the tank and cleaned it out with some acetone, then got the cover on to make it ONE WHOLE tank. Started at the bottom corners fitting them up as BryanD recommends, striving for that 90* joint. Did pretty well with that, got it all tacked up and started welding. I was running about 4 in beads at a time, stopping and cooling the welds with a wet rag and drying in effort to distribute the heat. After I got it all welded up, I fit it up in the location. I had been concerned with the wrap bar hitting the tank...it was also mentioned above. I decided to cut out part of the floor pan to get the tank up higher...it only yielded about 1.5 in, but it looks a lot better. I now have 5.5 in of clearance from the top of the wrap bar and the bottom of the tank. As mentioned before, Ill be dropping the bumps DOWN to help assure the two wont contact each other....hopefully.
Now that is all set, I can build the sump, weld some fittings and get this thing pressure tested to see how I did.

Here are some pics.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 002.JPG (74.8 KB, 54 views)
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File Type: jpg 006.JPG (82.6 KB, 55 views)
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Old February 19th, 2011   #30
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Few more...
Welds, chop job on the pan, approx. final resting place.
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File Type: jpg 008.JPG (55.5 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg 009.JPG (82.0 KB, 54 views)
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File Type: jpg 012.JPG (77.6 KB, 54 views)
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Old February 19th, 2011   #31
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NICE FUEL TANK!!!!

I NEED TO BUILD ONE FOR MY NASH PROJECT THAT IS SHALLOW BUT CAN COVER A LARGE AREA ALSO.

DID YA THINK ABOUT DOING A IN TANK FUEL PUMP?
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Old February 19th, 2011   #32
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Look's good....lotta work....nice job
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Old February 19th, 2011   #33
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NICE FUEL TANK!!!!

I NEED TO BUILD ONE FOR MY NASH PROJECT THAT IS SHALLOW BUT CAN COVER A LARGE AREA ALSO.

DID YA THINK ABOUT DOING A IN TANK FUEL PUMP?
YAP!!!
Educate me on it!!!!!
Donno much about em! For simplicity, I just figured I would be slated to run the in line, but if its doable for me, Id be in for it.
I am to understand that would be the OPTIMAL way to go for reliability cuz the fuel around it keeps it cool? Is that right?
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Old February 19th, 2011   #34
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Look's good....lotta work....nice job

Thanks!
Im getting used to the "lot of work" part of this.
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Old February 19th, 2011   #35
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Thanks!
Im getting used to the "lot of work" part of this.
Hey, welds look GREAT! and the "lot of work" part is satisfying in the long run as you will be part of the club that has built their own fuel tank. ALL the others are just pussies and afraid!
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Old February 20th, 2011   #36
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Hey, welds look GREAT! and the "lot of work" part is satisfying in the long run as you will be part of the club that has built their own fuel tank. ALL the others are just pussies and afraid!
Thanks man...I have been SOOOOOO missing out on the gas set up, especially with the sheet metal. It was STUPID how easy it was to weld that in a continuous bead. With the HH187 and flux....Id have been burning through all over. Cant wait to get some pressure on it and see just how well or how BAD I did.

Im gonna do something a little different with the sump. Got some 5x5, .120 wall square tube that Im gonna use in lieu of your method. Im gonna drill some holes through the floor of the tank for the fuel to get IN, but will be more apt to stay around the pickup. Got the idea from the CE sump that Summit sells. Ill keep the holes a bit more forward. The way I figured it, Ill have about .45 gal. held IN the sump chase.
If you see any problem with what Ive told you, lemme know before I do it.

Thanks again for all the instruction on this and also the great write up!
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Old February 20th, 2011   #37
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I DONT HAVE ANY INTANK EXPERIENCE BUT IN SOMETHING THAT MIGHT GET DRIVEN TO TRAILS IT SEEMS LIKE A PROPER INTANK SETUP WOULD BE MORE RELIABLE....EVEN PUTTING THE FUEL PUMP ON THE FRAME TAKES SOME PLANNING ON PUMP SELECTION AND MOUNTING LOCATION....

YOU MAY KNOW THAT MOST IN-LINE FUEL INJECTION PUMPS ARE PUSHERS,NOT PULLERS....EXPECTING THEM TO PULL FUEL UP AND OUT OF THE TANK WILL SHORTEN THEIR LIFE BY ALOT.....

THE EASY SOLUTION IS TO PUT A SUMP IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK AND MOUNT THE PUMP EVEN LOWER SO IT GETS A GOOD GRAVITY FED AMOUNT OF FUEL...

THE OTHER UPSIDE I SEE TO AN INTANK IS THE PUMP IS COOLED BY THE FUEL......BECAUSE EVEN RADIATED HEAT(FROM EXHAUST...) CAN KILL A PUMP MOUNTED ON THE FRAME RAIL....(ASK ANYONE WITH A KOH CAR...... )
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Old February 21st, 2011   #38
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I DONT HAVE ANY INTANK EXPERIENCE BUT IN SOMETHING THAT MIGHT GET DRIVEN TO TRAILS IT SEEMS LIKE A PROPER INTANK SETUP WOULD BE MORE RELIABLE....EVEN PUTTING THE FUEL PUMP ON THE FRAME TAKES SOME PLANNING ON PUMP SELECTION AND MOUNTING LOCATION....

YOU MAY KNOW THAT MOST IN-LINE FUEL INJECTION PUMPS ARE PUSHERS,NOT PULLERS....EXPECTING THEM TO PULL FUEL UP AND OUT OF THE TANK WILL SHORTEN THEIR LIFE BY ALOT.....

THE EASY SOLUTION IS TO PUT A SUMP IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK AND MOUNT THE PUMP EVEN LOWER SO IT GETS A GOOD GRAVITY FED AMOUNT OF FUEL...

THE OTHER UPSIDE I SEE TO AN INTANK IS THE PUMP IS COOLED BY THE FUEL......BECAUSE EVEN RADIATED HEAT(FROM EXHAUST...) CAN KILL A PUMP MOUNTED ON THE FRAME RAIL....(ASK ANYONE WITH A KOH CAR...... )
Thanks Ape.
Ill have to do some research on this. My plan was to run the in line off the sump and carry a spare "just in case". I had looked around at the GM, stock fuel pumps, but...I have NO IDEA how they would mount. There are like SIX ports coming off the unit, which is plastic and appears to be seated within a rubber grommit...Im one step up from a chimp, so that seems a bit more complicated than what I want, but Ill scrounge around, maybe hit up pirate and see if any of those guyz have done anything.
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Old February 21st, 2011   #39
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Thanks Ape.
Ill have to do some research on this. My plan was to run the in line off the sump and carry a spare "just in case". I had looked around at the GM, stock fuel pumps, but...I have NO IDEA how they would mount. There are like SIX ports coming off the unit, which is plastic and appears to be seated within a rubber grommit...Im one step up from a chimp, so that seems a bit more complicated than what I want, but Ill scrounge around, maybe hit up pirate and see if any of those guyz have done anything.
Ape's getting you all worried. plenty of us run inline pumps reliably these days. keep it on the opposite side of your tail pipe to minimize heat. if you can hear your fuel pump when the engine is running, something is plugged in the pre-filter and the pump is cavitating. clean the filter and you are good to go.

i can't imagine dealing with all the ports that a factory in-tank setup has. you won't be able to put the tank up as high as you want. a sump & inline pump is really you're only option IMO.
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Old February 21st, 2011   #40
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Posted a thread on Pirate re. in tank vs in line...
One guy posted THIS http://www.alltechmotorsports.com/services.html

The one posted is a TWO pump system (FUCKING EXPENSIVE), but I called him...SOOOOOPER nice guy...anyway, they do make a single pump. He was on the road, so he's gonna get back to me with a price. He custom builds the length, so I can give him the dimensions and he can set it so the pickup is on the floor of the sump.

Well see what happens!

All exciting things that Im learning in this build!!!
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Old February 21st, 2011   #41
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Yep...I alway's thought putting the fuel pump in da tank was the way to go W/Fuel injection system's.....until you have to replace em... kinda a pain in the ass than...what ever work's inline or intank....prolly it really come's down to what we can afford....
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Old February 21st, 2011   #42
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Yep...I alway's thought putting the fuel pump in da tank was the way to go W/Fuel injection system's.....until you have to replace em... kinda a pain in the ass than...what ever work's inline or intank....prolly it really come's down to what we can afford....
Yap!
Ill see what this single pump will run. Since I had cut out the floor pan I can very easily install an access hatch to get to it.
In then end though...Im a MIZER!!!
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Old March 11th, 2011   #43
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Ape's getting you all worried. plenty of us run inline pumps reliably these days. keep it on the opposite side of your tail pipe to minimize heat. if you can hear your fuel pump when the engine is running, something is plugged in the pre-filter and the pump is cavitating. clean the filter and you are good to go.

i can't imagine dealing with all the ports that a factory in-tank setup has. you won't be able to put the tank up as high as you want. a sump & inline pump is really you're only option IMO.
You were right!
I tried DESPERATELY to prove you wrong on this, but in the end, any of the in tank options will be at the cost of space DOWN with the tank.

For the last couple of weeks I have been researching and researching the topic of fuel, sumps, in tank vs. in line, walbros vs. sumps...

So Im back to the inline.
Looking at the airtex E8248 for the pump ( I think)
Either a square of cylindrical sump 4 in round? square by 4 in deep
1, one in hole on the bottom of the tank for fuel to get IN the sump
Pick up and return in and out of the sump at the rear of the tank (return there helps keep the un used fuel BACK in the sump)
Fittings at this point I have NO IDEA. Im planning on popping for the AN stuff to run twist tight fittings.
Is it AN 8 to the fuel pump and AN 6 out?

Anyway...Have done basically nothing except mount the tank. Just to update.
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Old March 11th, 2011   #44
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Im gonna wrap that rear mount down and under the tank. Someone thought that it might tear the tank wall out if not, over time.
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Old March 12th, 2011   #45
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BEST DEAL ON THAT AIRTEX PUMP IS @ AMAZON.... THAT I FOUND... IT WAS A HUGE IMPROVEMENT OF THE E2000...... IN TERMS OF FLOW...

http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8248-E...9920512&sr=1-1

TOO BAD THERE ISNT AN EASY IN TANK SOLUTION......
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Old March 12th, 2011   #46
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BEST DEAL ON THAT AIRTEX PUMP IS @ AMAZON.... THAT I FOUND... IT WAS A HUGE IMPROVEMENT OF THE E2000...... IN TERMS OF FLOW...

http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8248-E...9920512&sr=1-1

TOO BAD THERE ISNT AN EASY IN TANK SOLUTION......
Ape...have you ever checked out rock auto? www.rockauto.com
They KILL IT in the price department for OE parts. The GM pump I was messing with was 199 @ summit. I checked Rock auto and it was 143. Had Summit do a price match and it was less than what SUMMIT pays for it. So they ATE IT and did the match. Same thing for the E8248...140 @ summit and 90 @ rock auto.

Just in case you didnt know, itd be nice to impart something on this board.

There is ONE LAST in pump option that I COULD take...Im FUCKING DONE with it though. IF the in line really becomes a BIG ISSUE, I can use this other pump later down the road with only cutting a hole for it in the top. Its by TANKS INC.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm?pt...=cat&cat61.htm

BTW, I was talking with a guy a summit that knows you...Scott? He's been helping me out with some of this newbie crap Im doing. Great guy and seems to know quite a bit re. this stuff too. Wish I knew his schedule.
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Old March 12th, 2011   #47
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Ape...have you ever checked out rock auto? www.rockauto.com
They KILL IT in the price department for OE parts. The GM pump I was messing with was 199 @ summit. I checked Rock auto and it was 143. Had Summit do a price match and it was less than what SUMMIT pays for it. So they ATE IT and did the match. Same thing for the E8248...140 @ summit and 90 @ rock auto.

Just in case you didnt know, itd be nice to impart something on this board.

There is ONE LAST in pump option that I COULD take...Im FUCKING DONE with it though. IF the in line really becomes a BIG ISSUE, I can use this other pump later down the road with only cutting a hole for it in the top. Its by TANKS INC.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm?pt...=cat&cat61.htm

BTW, I was talking with a guy a summit that knows you...Scott? He's been helping me out with some of this newbie crap Im doing. Great guy and seems to know quite a bit re. this stuff too. Wish I knew his schedule.
NICE TO KNOW SUMMIT WILL PRICE MATCH THE INTERNET....SUCKS YOU COULDNT FIND AN EASY SOLUTION....THOUGH THE PUMPS IN THE LINK YOU PROVIDED LOOK LIKE THEY WOULD FIT THE BILL SINCE IT SAYS YOU ASSEMBLE TO YOUR TANK HEIGHT...WHICH I ASSUME MEANS THE DEPTH IS ADJUSTABLE.....

I THINK I PAYED UNDER $100 A YEAR AGO...AND THEY WARRANTIED IT ONCE.....

SCOTT IS USUALLY THERE IN THE AFTERNOONS ON THE WEEKEND......THAT DUDE IS JESSES CREW CHIEF.....
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Old March 12th, 2011   #48
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i've been using this inline on my run stand. i know others use it on their buggies. seems more than adequate for all of our engines around here. it was $74, now its $82

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3138/
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Old March 12th, 2011   #49
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i've been using this inline on my run stand. i know others use it on their buggies. seems more than adequate for all of our engines around here. it was $74, now its $82

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3138/
thats the e2000.....summit rebox!

same as this but you get a msd sticker for your extra $$$

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2225/

the e8248 flows more and is capable of more pressure.....

my e2000 was a trickle out of the return into the tank.....when i went with the 8274 it was a huge difference......cured my cold start fuel pressure issue I had always had on the 4.3...
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Old March 12th, 2011   #50
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thats the e2000.....summit rebox!

same as this but you get a msd sticker for your extra $$$

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2225/

the e8248 flows more and is capable of more pressure.....

my e2000 was a trickle out of the return into the tank.....when i went with the 8274 it was a huge difference......cured my cold start fuel pressure issue I had always had on the 4.3...
then my e2000 seems fine. i can monitor the return, and have, and i flows like a Mo-Fo. i was actually surprised to see how much was returning. i wonder if its not your single line, return fuel filter you run? mine is returning via the factory return line from the fuel rail. IMO, i think the e2000 is fine. it flows plenty, and does 85psi. you only need 65'ish to start/run.

FYI, the e2000 is not what i run on my buggy. its something else. the summit e2000 wasn't available then i think.
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